![]() These magazines all had the older style base plate that I replaced with the shim/new base plate with clip. Here is some information about the changes that stand out to me the most as common variables among the 3 Magazines. Like an idiot, I didn't keep the original internals and can't go back to original configuration and troubleshoot from there. I'm looking for potential remedies to try here and wanted to hear if anybody has any experience or knowledge regarding this. ![]() The failures would appear the same with the bolt not closing and the round facing up as if it was going to feed. The cerakoted ones would not feed at all and required me to manually charging the rifle to load the next round. I exclusively ran Lake City M118lr through all of the mags. I took them out on Friday along with some factory new-ish KAC mags that ran great. The issue is that none of them will feed. ![]() I replaced the springs/followers with brand new KAC Springs,Followers, and baseplates (like an idiot I tossed the originals). Got the magazines back and couldn't be happier with how they look. It really is slick.Update as well as request for additional help! ![]() You could call this product a poor man's nickel-boron coating for bolt carriers. I also really like the fact that once this stuff is dry, it doesn't make everything it touches black, like a lot of graphite products do. I've also used it on bolt carriers, buffer tube springs and buffer bodies, specifically, and any other high friction area that I don't necessarily want wet. It keeps the springs from rusting, as well as making them very slippery. I use the ZEP on CS mag springs and inside the mag bodies. If you just want to do mags I would lean to the brownells product if you want to try a a dry weapons lube and you can get a can of it to try the zep would get the nod. With my limited experiance with both and also remember the zep dry moly experiace was 10 yrs ago. The Zep dry moly lube coats a black color the brownells mag slick drys clear. I do remeber that I liked it and was pissed when I was told I would have to pay $200 a case to try it again. I only got the one can so I dont have to much experiance with it. The liberated sample that I got I tried on pistols I would coat the inside of slides ,barrel and the recoil guide rod. I dont remember every using Zep dry moly lube on magazines but i suppose you could. ![]() In all cases the dry lubed magazines were much smoother in travel then the others from 5 to 25rds loaded and while clean or lightly carbon magazines will function just as well the dry lube treatment may offer a bit of extra reliability when conditions become extreme and foreign material invades the magazine tube. Now not that this informal test means anything but I can see why some of the guys in the military are using the dry lube as it does make the treated old Colt magazines a bit smoother in follower travel over the others in the test.ĮTA: Since the drag/friction of loaded rounds inside the magazine can cause some dirty magazines not to function properly I uploaded five rounds at a time to a max of 25rds and used my paint stirrer to push the rounds/follower down and feel the resistance and then slowly allow the follower to return. I must say that the dry lubed magazines were much smoother as the follower moved over its full range of travel when compared to the cleaned but un-lubed and the uncleaned stock magazines. I used a paint stirrer to cycle the magazine follower up and down to feel the resistance of the follower as it moved Thu the magazine. Only on two of the magazines I applied a few second burst of the lube to the inside of the magazine body and another second on the spring and follower and allowed three minutes to dry. I disassembled and used a baby bottle bush and some hot water to clean inside four of the magazine bodies and a cloth to wipe down the spring and follower. I found a can of the PTFE X-Extreme ultra dry lubricant at local hard ware store for $2.49 and grabbed six Colt labeled 30rd magazines which have a good amount of use on them. ![]()
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